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Writer's pictureAlfie Simpson

Climbing Intuition - Fusing the Mind and Body

Updated: Apr 15

Rock climbing is a puzzle.

Solved not just with the mind, as chess is.

Solved not just with the body, as weightlifting is.

To solve complex climbing puzzles requires a fusion of the two.

The mind considers moves from the ground. Looking up. Visualising. When working out sequences for the first time, the mind works hard and considers the abilities and limitations of the body. And clearly the body is the means to execute these moves.

But up on the rock, climbing at your limit, you have to rely on that subconscious feeling of the positions you are in and adapting accordingly, the slow intellectual mind is not always as much help. There is rarely time for long, drawn-out thought. But one acts upon very subtle input and feedback received from the body.

You have to follow your gut and follow the body, you have to follow your climbing intuition.


 

What is climbing intuition?


Climbing intuition is the feeling that develops where your body understands the subtle changes required to make moves and sequences possible. This movement, at a high level, takes place subconsciously, allowing moves to be executed well and almost effortlessly, without additional mental strain or consideration.


Climbing intuition is the result of continuous thought, reflection, feedback from oneself and coaching and climbing with others. It ingrains itself into your subconscious and your muscles, making climbing movement intuitive and smooth.


When you are on your rock, you don't need to think, you are present, your body knows what to do and you do it (as best you can at your current strength/technique level).


It is a very unique feeling, closely intertwined with the flow state and effortless action (a Daoist idea).


The more you climb mindfully, the more you hone your climbing intuition.


 

Introducing flow


Rock climbing is a means to fuse the mind and the body. To develop our ability for the mind and body to work as one, helping us stay calm on the rock and execute our sequence of moves.


Climbing intuition is a matter of unifying the mind and body.


It allow the potential for the flow state, where the mind and body work as one, where there is no disconnect.


This honed sense of climbing intuition that is the flow state, almost propels us forward: the mind-body unit knows what it is doing. There is a sense of flow in ones movement and execution.


This amazing fusion that is climbing intuition is a lens into the beautiful harmony that can exist in general between the mind and the body.


 

Feeling a disconnect in everyday life


However, this flow state and sense of unity between the mind and body is almost a mystery outside of climbing.


In normal life, there can seem a disconnect. Where the mind wants one thing and the body wants another. Maybe unhealthy food, or has to get up early, or go to work.


Or perhaps the mind is stuck worrying about the future, about all the things to do and all the things that could go wrong. Or the mind is stuck in the past, regretting old decisions, wishing that this or that could have been different or gone to plan.


Either way, there is a resistance from the body or the mind.


It can be hard to live presently and be content and at peace with the moment that one finds themselves in.


 

The power of climbing in entering the flow state


But in rock climbing, when you are up there on the rock, there is no time for gnawing anxieties or past regrets - you are forced into the Now. Your mind and body become locked into the present and they start to work as one.


Feeling the body move and muscles fire, the subtle features of the rock against one's fingers, controlling one's breath, feeling the gusts of wind and the sounds of the natural world they are immersed in and part of.


Rock climbing effortlessly takes you to the present moment, a glimpse into a sense of serenity that is always there but hard to see and appreciate.

Mastering climbing intuition is akin to a mastering a martial art.


Both of them are concerned with the flow state. Flowing like water. Performing incredibly complex, subtle, and intricate moves effortlessly, without the mind fighting or the body resisting. It is a beautiful thing -- rare, and it takes a lifetime to master.


But with persistence, time, and patience, one works through the hard initial process of fighting with your body and straining your way through problems. Eventually learning to remain present and engaged - and this art of climbing intuition develops into something truly incredible and powerful in one's life.


Moreover, it can hint into an experience of flow, presence, and non-resistance that can be found in every moment of every day life. An experience of effortless flow and presence, living in accord with the Dao.


 

Does perfect climbing mean no falling?


But what about falling off? Not every climb is a perfect flow from bottom to the top where every move is completed with no errors. Sometimes your mind makes you fall when you are at the top.

Its okay. Falling off is part of the movement of climbing. It is part of the journey of learning about oneself and developing one's climbing intuition.


Climbing without ever falling off would become tedious and would negate its challenging puzzle aspect.


The struggle, particularly of falling at the top, helps us refine and better understanding our attitude to climbing. Whether we get frustrated or angry or annoyed we didn't meet our expectations. But it essential to learn that:


Falling is not a failure.


Falling allows us to improve, not just physically but mentally.


Perhaps one of the hardest things to do, but the best thing we can do, when we fall off a route, is to SMILE.


Especially important (but by all means harder to practice) is when it is a hard route we are close to sending or one that means a lot to us.


After falling off, that allows time for reflection. Particularly regarding your attitude towards yourself and your climbing.


Potentially, it also makes you aware of the current 'limitations' of your body and giving you the opportunity to accept this.


Accepting and not demeaning your body or getting angry at it for not succeeding at this arbitrary puzzle you have given it. The puzzle of rock climbing is a game, one to be taken lightly and not too seriously.


These two things (which are practically the same thing) - smiling at 'failure' and acceptance of oneself, are super important parts of developing a solid climbing intuition.


 

How to develop one's climbing intuition?

  1. Time and exposure on the wall

    1. Learning climbing movement is the foundation for an expert climbing intuition

    2. Learning how your body and mind works in a climbing environment

    3. Seeing when you are present and feel the flow and when you do not, when you get frustrated and caught up in numbers and expectations

  2. Patience

    1. You won't see videos on how to "Improve your climbing intuition in 7 days so you can climb V8!"

    2. It takes years, even decades to master. Just like a martial art!

    3. There aren't any shortcuts

  3. Climbing mindfully

    1. Being aware of how you climb, feeling the movement and being in the moment

    2. If we climb filled with frustration and anger if we can't complete a sequence, this leads us to climb tense and to get in our head. To overthink and put unnecessary pressure on ourselves. Which breaks us out of the flow state. Consistently climbing like this reduces the amount we reach flow, reduces overall enjoyment, and makes it harder for the body to relax and know what it needs to do

    3. Hence, it is important to develop a calm mindfulness in our climbing, and in our life in general. This can be done in many ways, but meditation and reading books on this topic can really open up a whole new life and way of living. One that carries over extremely well into any sport that one immerses themselves in

    4. Before you reach 'climbing mastery', when you cant move perfectly - just move how you can at your current level, without pressure to climb perfectly and execute moves 100% accurately and efficiently

      1. Practising climbing intuition is just as much a mental thing as it is a physical thing

    5. Letting your body moves how it can move, climbing with acceptance and mindfulness

    6. Not resisting or filling your body with tension or anger


 

To summarise

Developing climbing intuition is a lifelong endeavour. But every step of your climbing life, every route or boulder, every success or failure, so long as it is faced with presence, peace, patience and reflection, is part of the process. The process not only of reaching climbing 'mastery', but being able to live well and in harmony with one's mind and one's body.

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